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 Post subject: Fuseki question from recent game of mine
Post #1 Posted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 12:22 pm 
Lives with ko
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I'm black. This situation came up in a recent game and I spent a fair bit of time considering the possible responses before ultimately going with the first track. I've included two possible alternatives. I would appreciate comment from more experienced players.



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 Post subject: Re: Fuseki question from recent game of mine
Post #2 Posted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 12:42 pm 
Judan

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E3. But after C3, E2. Outside is big.

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 Post subject: Re: Fuseki question from recent game of mine
Post #3 Posted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 1:38 pm 
Tengen
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After white 14, IMHO everything is wrong.

Black 15 should be O17.
White 16 is little better than a pass.
Black 17 should be O17.

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Post #4 Posted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 3:33 pm 
Judan
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Hi Drew,

:b21: is strange. Should be a simple descent to C2 --
can you see the difference ?
Think about sente v. gote.
:b23: Bad habit. Just connect at C2.
Either way, you see :b21: is a wasted move.
You gave away sente for no good reason with ( :b21: + :b23: ).
:w24: Very slow, almost a pass.

:w30: Bad habit.
( :w30: , :b31: ) This exchange is bad for W, good for B.
Bad shape for W, good shape for B.
W reduces his own liberties, bumps his head against B,
for no good reason -- thus a bad habit for W.

As you can see, the problem is not with the opening,
at least not in the sense many beginners consider.

The biggest area to improve lies in the basics ( fundamentals ):
basic shapes, basic tesujis, basic life-and-death,
basic fighting skills ( contact fights, etc. ), etc. (*)

At these levels, 32 moves are too early.
Even with all the mistakes so far ( on both sides ),
the game is completely open -- anything can still happen
a these levels. The game is not decided here; not at all.
The game has barely started.

The game is decided over the subsequent 100 to 200 moves;
it's decided, later, by the good moves and the mistakes
in the basics -- see (*) above. :)

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 Post subject: Re: Fuseki question from recent game of mine
Post #5 Posted: Fri Sep 16, 2016 5:21 pm 
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In general, you can block at either C3 or at E3. Blocking at C3 means you want the corner territory, and you are willing to let W break up the right side. This would be the correct strategy if the right side was not valuable. Blocking at E3 means you want outside thickness facing the right side, and you are willing to let W live in the corner. This would be the correct strategy if the right side was very valuable. In this game, you already have a stone at J4, which makes the right side moderately valuable. I think you could block either way. Just make sure your subsequent play is consistent with whichever strategy you choose, and you will have a good game.

In the game sequence, :b21: is consistent with the strategy of taking the corner, but simply descending to C2 is better shape, giving W no extra forcing moves.

In your first alternate sequence, :b21: should be at E2, consistent with the strategy of making outside thickness and territory to the right. (Your stone at C6 already inhibits W if he moves in that direction; adding an extra stone at C4 is inefficient.)

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