Avoid harsh, direct sunlight ?Is there some way to protect from the darkening?
Making a white maple goban
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EdLee
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gowan
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Re: Making a white maple goban
The "wave" in the grain is known as flame. I is found in many types of wood and is caused by growth conditions. Usually it is highly valued for furniture or musical instrument making. Personally I think it might be too distracting for a go board. Of course all of those issues of appearance are matters of taaste.
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Vio
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Re: Making a white maple goban
I played many games in real life, can't estimate it. I played on many kind of boards usually on the normal size but may have been some in bad state, some grey plastic...
I can say I was NEVER distracted by how the board is. For sure.
So for me you can just focus on having a nice looking and comfortable board and not worry that much on lines, shapes or scratches disturbing your gameplay.
Back on OP goban picture, I find it awesome. The yunze stones match so well the board material, gave me a "modern" feeling and is as good as a Asian esthetic more yellowish. My taste only of course.
I can say I was NEVER distracted by how the board is. For sure.
So for me you can just focus on having a nice looking and comfortable board and not worry that much on lines, shapes or scratches disturbing your gameplay.
Back on OP goban picture, I find it awesome. The yunze stones match so well the board material, gave me a "modern" feeling and is as good as a Asian esthetic more yellowish. My taste only of course.
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MagRes
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Re: Making a white maple goban
Pio2001 wrote:
If you plan to make another one, try to find a black pigment ink, like India ink, because the black ordinary ink of your pens might fade.
I really wanted to do this initially, but getting uniform lines was going to be extremely difficult. The fillable pens/markers I could find for pigmented ink make lines that are to thick and not uniform. I don't really want to use a sword or knife to do it, because a large jig would be needed and I'm not making more than a few for fun.
Ultimately, if it does fade, it is about a half-day job to remove the old lines and finish and reapply the new lines and finish. The Staedtler Lumocolor Special marker I used should last quite a while. It is advertised as "Extremely lightfast (on smooth surfaces: black for 7 years; on paper considerably longer)." I would think it would last at least 10-20 years even if exposed to light since it is somewhat protected with the finish.
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Pio2001
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Re: Making a white maple goban
I have found a site with a lot of information on woods :
https://www.wood-database.com/wood-arti ... oft-maple/
It confirms what Gowan told us, and gives a measurement of the hardness of many woods.
Hard maple (or rock maple) has a Janka hardness of 1,450 lbf, while soft maples have a hardness around 800 lbf only. That explains why my maple looks soft, while yours looks hard.
Bamboo's hardness is similar as hard maple's, around 1500 lbf.
But many tropical woods are harder than that. I talked about ipe. I was not mistaken, its hardness is 3500 lbf ! More than twice as hard as hard maple and bamboo.
The hardest known wood is lignum vitae, with a hardness of 4390 lbf. I once had a small puzzle made of lignum vitae in hand. It was so heavy and hard that I could have mistaken it for a kind of stone !
https://www.wood-database.com/wood-arti ... oft-maple/
It confirms what Gowan told us, and gives a measurement of the hardness of many woods.
Hard maple (or rock maple) has a Janka hardness of 1,450 lbf, while soft maples have a hardness around 800 lbf only. That explains why my maple looks soft, while yours looks hard.
Bamboo's hardness is similar as hard maple's, around 1500 lbf.
But many tropical woods are harder than that. I talked about ipe. I was not mistaken, its hardness is 3500 lbf ! More than twice as hard as hard maple and bamboo.
The hardest known wood is lignum vitae, with a hardness of 4390 lbf. I once had a small puzzle made of lignum vitae in hand. It was so heavy and hard that I could have mistaken it for a kind of stone !
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bogiesan
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Re: Making a white maple goban
[quote="MagRes"
I really wanted to do this initially, but getting uniform lines was going to be extremely difficult. The fillable pens/markers I could find for pigmented ink make lines that are to thick and not uniform. I don't really want to use a sword or knife to do it, because a large jig would be needed and I'm not making more than a few for fun.[/quote]
The big rig jig is only necessary in a production situation where one might be making hundreds of boards. In your case, you’d only need one pair of guides for one pass of the blade, carefully repositioning between strokes. Your comment about easily being able to remove the lines and top coat indicates great planning.
How has it been holding up?
I’ve got a similar type of project underway: same base wood, different marking system.
I really wanted to do this initially, but getting uniform lines was going to be extremely difficult. The fillable pens/markers I could find for pigmented ink make lines that are to thick and not uniform. I don't really want to use a sword or knife to do it, because a large jig would be needed and I'm not making more than a few for fun.[/quote]
The big rig jig is only necessary in a production situation where one might be making hundreds of boards. In your case, you’d only need one pair of guides for one pass of the blade, carefully repositioning between strokes. Your comment about easily being able to remove the lines and top coat indicates great planning.
How has it been holding up?
I’ve got a similar type of project underway: same base wood, different marking system.
David Bogie, Boise ID
I play go, I ride a recumbent, of course I use Macintosh.
I play go, I ride a recumbent, of course I use Macintosh.
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MagRes
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Re: Making a white maple goban
It is working as intended, a nice looking board that I am not afraid to throw in a bag with other things or spill something on since I can easily refinish it.
It is mainly the hassle of getting a sword, making a jig, and ink that I wanted to avoid with the lines. The only reason I would want to own these items is to go into goban production, which I do not want to do. They are tools to me. I would have gone this more complex route if there were truly no nice looking alternative, hence the moderately extensive testing of pens/inks and finishes.
It is mainly the hassle of getting a sword, making a jig, and ink that I wanted to avoid with the lines. The only reason I would want to own these items is to go into goban production, which I do not want to do. They are tools to me. I would have gone this more complex route if there were truly no nice looking alternative, hence the moderately extensive testing of pens/inks and finishes.