Life In 19x19

I have to build this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdCDSr5 ... tu.be&t=32
although i never created something with wood

To make a table is not so difficult or?
I think the rotating board and the outsliding drawer is a little bit harder but i think i can do it with some sort of hinge?
My biggest problem is the curved wood for the drawer...otherwise i make something like a pullout drawer but that is not so beautifully.

I do not need the sliding Go-Stone-Box...i will just place my normal Go-Stone-Box in the drawer

We will see and i will show my results in 3-5 years

Or does anyone have some hints?

Soo.
I made a ground-plan with sketchup and i thought about some things which i saw while i was „sketchuping“

-The opponent do not see the captured stones … so i will probably / maybe make two wood notch in the table frame so that everybody can see the stones.

-Which height should the table have? 40cm (15,7inch) or 50cm (19,6inch) or higher ...

-How much will the outsliding drawer hurt the knees? My Plan is that the outsliding drawer will stand out 22cm (8,6inch) …

-How deep will the stone box stand in the outsliding drawer?


In the next days I will test these things with the help of stacked books

It seems the drawer should go on the sides rather than where the player sits, so it shouldn't have any effect on the knees. Or do I misunderstand you?

jeromie wrote:It seems the drawer should go on the sides rather than where the player sits, so it shouldn't have any effect on the knees. Or do I misunderstand you?

I agree. The side does make more sense.

One thing I was wondering is how do you attach the board to the table? It would be simple to attach them with screws or dowels, but that would mean screwing or drilling into a possibly nice goban... Maybe you could design the lips that secure the board so that they cover a small part of the top of the board? If you did one on each side, that would hold. However, the part on the top of the board will need to be small enough that you don't obstruct the board.

Also, if you don't want to bend the wood to make the curved drawers, you could just have regular rectangular pull-out drawers on the sides.

And you asked about the "hinge" for the board. The easiest strategy for that might be to place dowels on each side in the middle of the portion of the table top with the board. The table top would then spin on those.

jeromie wrote:It seems the drawer should go on the sides rather than where the player sits, so it shouldn't have any effect on the knees. Or do I misunderstand you?

Ohhh ... the drawers are on the sides!!! I thought they were at the player-sitting-side.
That makes another thing a lot more easier … when the drawer is on the same side as the player. The player has to stretch a very long distance to the first line on the “enemy” side
But now everything makes sense

BlindGroup wrote:One thing I was wondering is how do you attach the board to the table? It would be simple to attach them with screws or dowels, but that would mean screwing or drilling into a possibly nice goban... Maybe you could design the lips that secure the board so that they cover a small part of the top of the board? If you did one on each side, that would hold. However, the part on the top of the board will need to be small enough that you don't obstruct the board.

First I thought about the wooden clamps in the video on 1:52 on the right and the left side. I will drill 3 holes in the goban from the side on two sides and drew it tight. But your Idea is very good but it has to be very tight because if the rotating table. Thanks for that.

BlindGroup wrote:Also, if you don't want to bend the wood to make the curved drawers, you could just have regular rectangular pull-out drawers on the sides. And you asked about the "hinge" for the board. The easiest strategy for that might be to place dowels on each side in the middle of the portion of the table top with the board. The table top would then spin on those.

First I will try to build these sliding curved drawers
and thanks for the tip. I will go into a shop (in german it is called „Bauhaus“) and i will search for something which i can rotate.

Soo,
this is the table:

On the one side is a chessboard and on the other side is a go-board. The two wood notches are for the captured stones and the drawer has two spaces: one for the gobox and the other one for the chess pieces. The small one is for the goboxcap.

I have to test the table height in the next weeks (i vary between 60cm/23,62 and 74cm/29,13 inch...with 74cm you can put your knees under the table) and i have to search for the best hinges.

I will write again when I am a little bit further maybe with a few real pics

That is awesome!

Dragonstone wrote:I will write again when I am a little bit further maybe with a few real pics

Very cool … I’d like to know when you go into mass production I might want to order one

I'm not sure where to go with this, but I had a thought. The original table looks like it was designed to double as a coffee/end Table when not serving in go-mode. The hidable drawers then enabled one to hide game supplies so that they didn't interfere with coffee-table-mode.

At the point that you are giving up coffee-table-mode for chess-mode (which is honestly a better option...), does it make sense to rethink other aspects of the design? For example, if the table is only going to be used for game-play, the ability to hide the drawers is less valuable. So, you could make then non-retractable. Or what about making the drawers circular with one half of each circle dedicated to go and the other to chess? The drawers would still rotate, but one half would always be exposed depending on which game would be played. That could be useful if you wanted more storage space for each set of game pieces.

Finally, rather than attaching a go-board, why not make the center board the go board itself and etch the chess board onto the back of it? Again, this wouldn't work in the original design because the back of the goban would look terrible in coffee-table-mode, but that's not an issue for chess-mode.

I feel like there might be other changes you could consider along these lines, but these are the ones that popped into my head when I realized the change is use implied by the new design.

BlindGroup wrote:That is awesome!

Thanks

Bonobo wrote:Very cool … I’d like to know when you go into mass production I might want to order one

The easy virtual part is done but now comes the hard craft part. And as a physiotherapist I am not a very good craftman … we will see … When i think of the working hours the table will cost a lot of money

BlindGroup wrote:Or what about making the drawers circular with one half of each circle dedicated to go and the other to chess? The drawers would still rotate, but one half would always be exposed depending on which game would be played. That could be useful if you wanted more storage space for each set of game pieces.
Finally, rather than attaching a go-board, why not make the center board the go board itself and etch the chess board onto the back of it? Again, this wouldn't work in the original design because the back of the goban would look terrible in coffee-table-mode, but that's not an issue for chess-mode.
I feel like there might be other changes you could consider along these lines, but these are the ones that popped into my head when I realized the change is use implied by the new design.

You have very good ideas BlindGroup but when I have a circular drawer I can not rotate the table and I like the idea of a rotate table to impress other people
But I will appreciate the circular drawer when something with the rotate table does not work.

I do not know if i can etch a chessboard (has is something to do with acid???) I think i will buy a chessboard or when my motivation is still enormous high i will make a chessboard with small wooden plates

I thought about a lot of changes or other things (for example: a place for a clock or places for tee cups … ) but then I will never start with crafting
So I said to me that this is the table and when something is not working I will have to overthink it.

I hope I will make it to a “Bauhaus” next week or the week after to ask for hinges and look for some wood in the right size.

Dragonstone wrote: You have very good ideas BlindGroup but when I have a circular drawer I can not rotate the table and I like the idea of a rotate table to impress other people
But I will appreciate the circular drawer when something with the rotate table does not work.

I hadn't thought of that... Honestly, I was just throwing out ideas. That said, I agree: spinning the board is too valuable

Dragonstone wrote: I do not know if i can etch a chessboard (has is something to do with acid???) I think i will buy a chessboard or when my motivation is still enormous high i will make a chessboard with small wooden plates

I was actually thinking of something a little easier than formal "etching", but I'm still not convinced it is a good idea. I was just imagining turning the goban over and removing any wax or sealant from the back -- a light sanding might not be a bad idea but it would remove any coloring applied to the back. Then you could just paint on the lines of the chess board and color in the darker squares with a significantly darker wood stain than is on the rest of the board.

Dragonstone wrote: I hope I will make it to a “Bauhaus” next week or the week after to ask for hinges and look for some wood in the right size.

Good luck and post a picture when you get something!

Sooo,
just a short info: i was at the Bauhaus and I think that everything will work
I have to change the dimensions a little bit but that is okay. They told me that I can order round wood and my father told me that there are special wood types which I can bend for the drawers

For the moving wood panels I will use metal-pins which I already bought.

The table height will be approximately 72cm/28,3 inch.

I will write again when I start but I think it will take a couple of weeks …

Hello again,
i am sorry that it takes so long but i had to learn a lot for an extra education (and i got it: yeah) and had additionally a lot of work to do.
I had to change another thing: the small frame around the drawer was to thin. So i will build the drawer wider and there will be only a crossbar above and below so that the weight from the drawer is kept better (go-stones + go-boxes + chess-figures).

I hope the bigger round board for the drawer is coming soon.
For the rounded piece of wood i have two plans ... i will have to test them and see which one will work.

Greetings in a few weeks ... i hope so

Are you planning on making a 19 x 19 board, or a 9 x 9 as shown?