Time for a Change?
Posted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 12:41 am
I'm beginning to wonder whether Fischer timing or byo'yomi are really necessary in standard tournaments of Go, Shogi, Chess, Xjianggqi . . .
. . . Because you can use absolute timing, absolutely. Set the total time for the round as 3/4ths of the combined absolute time for all players, and of course this means in the case of a two-player match, it would be 3/2hlvs of each player's main time. As long as one doesn't fall more than 5/6ths of the combined absolute time behind, and assuming they can move and place pieces as fast as their opponent, they can guarantee that they won't lose on time in a winning or drawing position because their opponent took advantage of their greater time reserve and kept playing pointless moves.
Some may say this will be unfair on the player who plays quickly. Yes, I agree, go is a game played on two dimensions of space and one dimension of time. But I would counter that by saying that go is a game played on two dimension of space and one dimension of time. The same dimension of time--not two different dimensions of time for each player. In fact this implores one to do away with separate time limits altogether and have nothing but a total round time drawing the game if it's exceeded, but of course any player can force a draw by doing nothing. The exact compromise, the mathematical mean of these two, is to have a total game time that is 3/4ths of the combined individual time limits. And the best way to have a clear picture of the individual time limits is to use absolute timing, which is now possible due to there being a total round time limit less than each players' combined time.
So if a round of a two-player match gives 30 minutes absolute time per person, the total possible time for that round will be 45 minutes, with any games unfinished after then considered a draw. But this would mean players should play as if they have 22.5 minutes on their clock, not 30. So the proper way to state the time would be 22.5 minutes per side plus a third of that time, 7.5 minutes, to prevent a losing player from forcing the winning player into a timeout unfairly--assuming two plyers can make moves at the same speed, if losing player has more than 1/3rd of the total time's time than the winning player, I'd consider forcing a timeout in a losing position fair play (although I won't do it myself).
For really fast-paced tournaments like the New Ryusei Fischer and Byo'yomi do make dramatic sense, but for anything longer than the NHK cup, I'd switch to Semi-Total timing, a kind of Timeout-Prevention timing.
I also wonder whether one needs to use an actual chess clock; just countdown timers seem fine enough. In two-player go, after you make your move, you press your opponent's clock to start theirs and then press your own to stop yours. For Shogi, esChess and Xjianggqi Chess Clocks look like they make sense, however for go it seems it would be better if one had two clocks, each being many times thinner than a chess clock if they're on the left and right sides. I thought of the possibility of a go board with a groove underneath to connect the two clocks, and it would be easier for my preference for having each clock be spherical or square and up and down, on the side of each player in the space their bowl isn't in, but without that one can use this method. Let's assume you don't use ST timing in your tournament; you can still increase the likelihood all games finish on time by having players use this timekeeping system. Tables wouldn't go sideways as much as a Karuta mat or a trading card game table.
. . . Because you can use absolute timing, absolutely. Set the total time for the round as 3/4ths of the combined absolute time for all players, and of course this means in the case of a two-player match, it would be 3/2hlvs of each player's main time. As long as one doesn't fall more than 5/6ths of the combined absolute time behind, and assuming they can move and place pieces as fast as their opponent, they can guarantee that they won't lose on time in a winning or drawing position because their opponent took advantage of their greater time reserve and kept playing pointless moves.
Some may say this will be unfair on the player who plays quickly. Yes, I agree, go is a game played on two dimensions of space and one dimension of time. But I would counter that by saying that go is a game played on two dimension of space and one dimension of time. The same dimension of time--not two different dimensions of time for each player. In fact this implores one to do away with separate time limits altogether and have nothing but a total round time drawing the game if it's exceeded, but of course any player can force a draw by doing nothing. The exact compromise, the mathematical mean of these two, is to have a total game time that is 3/4ths of the combined individual time limits. And the best way to have a clear picture of the individual time limits is to use absolute timing, which is now possible due to there being a total round time limit less than each players' combined time.
So if a round of a two-player match gives 30 minutes absolute time per person, the total possible time for that round will be 45 minutes, with any games unfinished after then considered a draw. But this would mean players should play as if they have 22.5 minutes on their clock, not 30. So the proper way to state the time would be 22.5 minutes per side plus a third of that time, 7.5 minutes, to prevent a losing player from forcing the winning player into a timeout unfairly--assuming two plyers can make moves at the same speed, if losing player has more than 1/3rd of the total time's time than the winning player, I'd consider forcing a timeout in a losing position fair play (although I won't do it myself).
For really fast-paced tournaments like the New Ryusei Fischer and Byo'yomi do make dramatic sense, but for anything longer than the NHK cup, I'd switch to Semi-Total timing, a kind of Timeout-Prevention timing.
I also wonder whether one needs to use an actual chess clock; just countdown timers seem fine enough. In two-player go, after you make your move, you press your opponent's clock to start theirs and then press your own to stop yours. For Shogi, esChess and Xjianggqi Chess Clocks look like they make sense, however for go it seems it would be better if one had two clocks, each being many times thinner than a chess clock if they're on the left and right sides. I thought of the possibility of a go board with a groove underneath to connect the two clocks, and it would be easier for my preference for having each clock be spherical or square and up and down, on the side of each player in the space their bowl isn't in, but without that one can use this method. Let's assume you don't use ST timing in your tournament; you can still increase the likelihood all games finish on time by having players use this timekeeping system. Tables wouldn't go sideways as much as a Karuta mat or a trading card game table.