New AI Computer
Due to the mining boom etc., I could not buy an AI computer for RTX 3000 but had to wait three years to buy one with RTX 4000. Meanwhile, I have learnt a lot but proper installation of AI software is the next hurdle. I may not be the only newbie for an AI computer so other newbies might encounter similar difficulties. In this thread, we can discuss possible solutions.
Hardware
One major aspect is hardware choice. Besides consoles (really?), eGPUs (why?), online services (restricted functionality) or AI servers (astronomic speeds and prices), one's own computer is the serious ordinary approach. The major options are mobile devices (from now on tagged "notebooks"), mini PCs and desktops.
Mini PCs
There are very few models of mini PC with suitable dGPU. Mini PCs with latest chips started to appear 22 months delayed but this may change for the current chip generation as mini PCs with 780M iGPU are already available with only 4 ~ 5 months delay - a record. However, Intel NUCs with dGPUs are not attractive. The only noteworth mini PCs with dGPUs are Minisforum with 3070TI Laptop GPU for less than €1000. Cheap, reasonably silent but only mediocre speed (last generation's reasonable notebook speed below the unreasonably priced 3080TI Laptop notebooks). However, whether Intel or Minisforum, the only available such mini PCs have huge skulls on their chassis. I have asked Minisforum: they will do the same for RTX 4000 Laptop. Buy it if you like such or don't if you don't! I don't. One must not cover the chassis by huge labels because the metal chassis is essential for cooling. This leaves notebooks or desktops.
Notebooks
Last generation's notebooks tended to be too loud. Some of this generation's notebooks have reasonable noise but their prices are exaggerated by ca. €1000 ~ €1900 (some high end notebooks even by several thousand euros). Notebook manufacturers have learnt from Nvidia's Ampere greed and now try to do the same until the market settles or sorts out all excessively priced models. Besides manufacturers cheat: after currency conversion and tax, effective notebook prices outside the USA can be €100 ~ €1900 higher than the prices of the essentially same models in the USA. Manufacturers distribute old, excessively huge power bricks in some regions of the world, set applelesque surcharges for RAM, SSD, Windows and whatnot, offer too short warranty periods or bad warranty conditions, and do whatever they can to rip off the endconsumers and insult their intelligence. Buy a last generation notebook with mediocre speed or wait another 6, 12 or 24 months until prices, condition, service and treatment become reasonable again. Rare exceptions confirm the rule. Expect a well chosen notebook to cost at least €1000 ~ €1300 more than a similarly configured desktop without peripherals and with 1.5x the speed.
Besides these aspects, notebooks are compromises on quality and features. Regardless of the price, currently it is impossible to get a notebook with the same level of both as a desktop. The compromise of a desktop is, of course, immobility and possibly DIY assembly. Notebooks have some or all of these shortcomings: weak chassis, weak keyboard, bad keyboard layout (small arrow keys, missing page navigation keys etc.), a possibly mechanical keyboard is not mechanical for many keys, wrong keyboard locale, bad display ratio, mirroring display, flickering display (pulse width modulation or the like), dark display, faulty display pixels, only OLED offered, weak display hinge, missing or bad battery replacement, short battery life in ordinary use, under load or without power plug, missing or bad or extremely bad maintenance, loud, very loud or extremely loud under GPU load, not silent in idle, coil whine, wrong GPU manufacturer, slow GPU, badly chosen CPU, too little RAM installed or installable, slow RAM, slow SSD, without or insufficient operating system, bad CPU or GPU pasting, without vapor chamber, without liquid metal on CPU or GPU, too small fans, bad airflow, bad air boundaries, insufficient or buggy UEFI, insufficient or buggy drivers, insufficient or buggy system control software, crapware, crap labels, weak package, ugly chassis attributes, camera bump (at least notch is Apple-only for notebooks thus far), permanent annoying lights, permanent data theft and violation of data protection and privacy laws etc.
RTX 4070 Laptop is the speed of RTX 3070TI Laptop so mediocre speed of last generation. If this is sufficient for you, you might consider Asus Flow X13, X16 *, Z13 *, ProArt StudioBook, Strix G17 *, Vivobook Pro 16X, Dell Alienware x14 R2 (4060), Gigabyte Aero 16 OLED, MSI Creator Z16 HX, Z17 HX, Schenker Vision Pro 16, Stealth 14 Studio, Stealth 16 Studio *, where * denotes such models for which fan settings exist that allow reasonable relative GPU speed at acceptable noise (at most 43 dB) but I rely on tests and cannot guarantee it.
If you want typing on a mechanical keyboard with an experience at least somewhat similar to a desktop keyboard, the candidates are Dell Alienware m16 (less so because smaller chassis allows less heat dissipation), m18 (but Alienwares require difficult and risky, almost complete disassembly for cleaning of the large fans so that eventually one can destroy the notebook while trying to maintain it, besides the system control software is buggy, the alien heads a matter of taste, non-US mechanical keyboards are delayed by months and non-US prices are extraordinarily excessive rip offs), Medion Erazer Beast X40 (too loud), Major X20 (too loud), MSI Titan GT77 HX (way too loud and very expensive), XMG Neo 16 E23 (too loud without external water cooling etc.), 17 E23 (might, or might not, be too loud without external water cooling but trustworthy noise tests have not been made yet etc.).
Among the remaining notebooks with possibly / hopefully acceptable noise, I considered especially Acer Predator Helios 18 (wobbly keyboard, like earlier, similar Acer notebooks but far from desktop typing experience), Triton 17X (wobbly keyboard), Asus Strix G18 (coil whine, at most 32GB RAM, wobbly keyboard, camera bump, permanent annoying lights etc.), Scar 16 (about as before, expensive), Scar 18 (about as before, expensive), Lenovo Legion Pro 7i Gen 8 (a bit too loud, suboptimal keyboard layout / typing, rip off prices unless on sale, only 32 GB RAM, features worse than last generation), ThinkPad P1 G6 (small arrow keys), PCSpecialist Recoil VII 17 (no independent noise tests yet, no German mechanical keyboard, GPU without liquid metal, suboptimal keyboard layout)
Hence, my conclusion has been: none of the notebooks offers, or will offer in the forseeable future, an acceptable compromise. Your opinion may differ, especially if you can accept RTX 3070TI / 4070 Laptop speed and possibly a 16:9 display ratio for 1:1 go boards. I am going the desktop route.
Desktops
Last generation, I wanted to buy an RTX 3080 10 GB, 320W, three 8-pin connectors and, for silence, a 1200W PSU (Corsair HX 1200i has been discontinued despite contrary promises so the option was BeQuiet Dark Power Pro 12 1200W for roughly €340) to be operated semi-passively around 50% loud. This generation, I have bought an RTX 4070, 200W, one 8-pin so that the passive Seasonic Prime TX-700 Fanless is possible, as I do not want to over-clock. Besides a few other reasonably silent models, the most silent 4070 graphics cards appear to be Asus TUF 4070 12G (or O12G if operated at 200W-) with 200W and one 8-pin and MSI 4070 Gaming X Trio with, IIRC, 215W and one 12-pin to two 8-pins. Asus has accumulated a bad reputation (including trying to rip off me with RTX 3080 and faulty motherboards) while the MSI card uses 12-pin, which tends to melt if used on an RTX 4090. Although 4070 is not as power-hungry, I do not want to take any risk and dislike splitted cables. The one 8-pin at just 200W of the Asus card is ideal, and the quality of Asus graphics cards has not been doubted seriously in recent times. The build quality is excellent. The included magnetic stand serves as an intermediate solution but I will get or build a more solid stand. I would avoid AMD or Intel GPUs for go AI, which profits from Nvidia CUDA and tensor cores, and Nvdia drivers are more stable.
Low noise is my primary concern. Theoretically, passive desktops are possible but very hard to build and you might have to preorder half a year in advance to pay €800 - €1000 for the chassis alone. Mini-ITX is another route but your choice of components is limited, the noise can be a bit higher and building is hard. Forget about watercooling graphics cards - all you achieve is moving the noise from the card to a radiator on top of the desktop or external; watercooling is for show-off Youtubers, rich overclockers or ultra-rich data scientists needing to store 4+ graphics cards in the chassis. Unless you choose a 180+W CPU, AIO-watercooling it serves no purpose other than possibly a cleaner interior for more RGB space, if this is your preference, but beware that water can leak etc. The reasonable approach is a 65W AMD CPU (Intel lies too much about thermals, AMD also lies but very cautiously) and a good CPU air cooler. I wanted to buy Scythe Fuma 2 Rev B but it went out of stock at the beginning of 2023, Scythe Fuma 3 is about to appear but available only from mid July is some parts of the world and its noise still untested. I have chose a BeQuiet Darkrock Pro 4, whose assembly is somewhat advanced. Surely a very heavy overkill but good for low noise especially for moderate CPU use, as is the case for GPU load of go AIs when my Ryzen 7700 (no X in the name, 65W, 8C, 16T) runs around 16%. I guess a 6-core, 12-thread CPU would also do but 8 cores are more future-proof and lower percentage allows lower noise. I would have taken a 15W CPU if such a reasonable option had been available for a desktop motherboard. Of course, there are also some good Noctua CPU coolers of large or intermediate size or others, which can operate at reasonably low noise, especially if used for modest CPU loads. My case fans are Arctic P14 PWM, but I think that the best BeQuiet fans would perform similarly. Put 3 at the front and 1 at the rear. Connect each individually with 4 pins directly to your motherboard, which thus must have at least four system fan headers. After first tuning, my UEFI fan curves (choose a motherboard with suitable firmware and VRM [not a typo, this means voltage regulator modules, not to be confused with VRAM] coolers, of course!) are:
GPU: Default
CPU: 0°C/20% 45°C/35% 70°C/45% 80°C/100%
Each case fan: 40°C/50% 55°C/50% 75°C/60% 85°C/100%
Note that the case fans operate at slightly different RPMs despite equal fan curves so that there are no unnecessary interferences. Otherwise, set slightly different fan curves in PWM modes, of course. At idle and default, the values are GPU fans 0 RPM, CPU fans ~480 RPM and case fans 975+ RPM. GPU and CPU have ~41°C. Under GPU load (Furmark or KataGo), subjectively the PC is as silent as when idle. I guess it might be roughly 37dB, the frequency is low and it sounds like a remote room fan. The values are:
KataGO:
CPU ~16% 67-°C 620 RPM,
Chassis fans 1080- RPM,
dGPU 94% 64-°C hotspot 76,6-°C 1078- RPM
iGPU 0%
Furmark:
CPU mostly 3-% rarely 20-% 48~51,5°C 515~528 RPM
Chassis fans 966- RPM
dGPU 99~100% 68-°C hotspot 82-°C 1211- RPM
iGPU with load but thermically neglectable
Only if I stress test my PC with 100% CPU (such as CPU-Z stress test) 99~100% GPU load (Furmark), the CPU fan reaches about 1200 RPM and the chassis fans about 1400 RPM, which is noticably less silent and comes with a bit of chassis excitement but would still be acceptable, albeit it is not the very silent experience of KataGo or Furmark. In conclusion, the noise of a well configured desktop is as low as I hoped for. You might achieve such levels with a well chosen RTX 3070 TI / 4070 Laptop notebook if operating the GPU at 70% TDP using MSI Afterburner or the like. So far, I am running my GPU at 100% but I might try lower power targets later whether they impact noise or speed significantly. Less TDP might allow even slower chassis and CPU fans. They matter because I cannot hear the GPU fans even if they run at 1100 RPM. Do not forget to get a suitable, large airflow mesh chassis, which must allow the passive PSU to emit air upwards to free space or through holes. Mine is Fractal Meshify 2. Although testers tested that the no longer available S2 had even better airflow, we may consider this superstitious as surely the airflow here is good. Maybe fine differences matter when one uses high TDP OC components. Chassis is also a matter of taste but beware that even some hyped models, such as Torrent, have had their case burning issues. The more something burns, the more it is hyped or bundled.
SSD: take whatever you want, they are cheap. I prefer low latency and avoid model series with bad firmware reputation, so do inform yourself. RAM is a difficult issue. Obviously it must be dual channel with two identical sticks. The most importantly, it must fit well under any overly large CPU cooler! So check the dimensions. DDR5 and 4 sticks still do not seem to work well. Take 2 sticks of the right size and call it a day. You absolutely must check motherboard compatibility (also of the CPU for the firmware version) at the motherboard or RAM manufacturers' webpages! Everybody and the specifications will tell you that RAM XMP / EXPO overclocking is the norm but I have had no luck and no energy to achieve at least partial RAM overclocking. The exact combination of RAM models, motherboard, firmware and CPU matters and no four RAM sticks are the same. You may as well save €20 ~ 40 and get your JEDEC sticks! Anyway, stability matters more than alleged 2% faster speed. CPU pasting: do not bath your PC and do not put so little that heat will not distribute the paste everywhere on the main surface.
You can spend umlimited time on informing yourself in advance on to configure and build your desktop but, nevertheless, manuals always miss one essential aspect and inevitable you will still meet difficulties... Are all components compatible by size, standard and type? How to route cables not over potentially hot components? Which side of a fan is its intake? Which cable to connect in which direction to which port? Is each cable connected sufficiently firmly? Can each cable still be connected after installing the CPU cooler or are some cables better connected early? When to insert the USB stick for the firmware update? Should I learn unattended Windows installation to enable offline, local user account and no annoying data theft settings? Must the display be connected initially to the motherboard or graphics card? In which slots to put the RAM sticks? How slow should I operate so that no screws or heavy parts fall onto the motherboard? Should I get am electric screwdriver and with lots of modules to avoid many hours of removing and installing case fans? Which is the right screwdriver for the right screw? Will I have enough cable binders? Does the CPU cooler with pad or paste or do I need to buy some? Do I have all needed USB sticks and cables? What too cheap Windows license is legal in my country? I have made one mistake: after four days of assembly, I pressed the On button but nothing happened because the mainboard plug was not inserted properly.
For the drivers, get the graphics card driver from the dGPU manufacturer, the appropriate chipset driver from the CPU manufacturer, first let Windows do its job, then install these two drivers, then look in the Windows device manager for Unknown devices or devices with exclamation marks, for which you find drivers on your new computer, at the mainboard manufacturer's webpages or elsewhere.
Currently, new mainboards are ca. €70 overpriced and some oher components slightly overpriced so one might pay ca. 7% more than for the last generation in a hypothetical world of then available graphics cards at MSRPs. If, however, you wait, the next crisis might come. There is never a truly right moment for purchasing a computer, unless you can buy all at the same time at a sale when you actually need it. At least I got my GPU for the price I wanted to spend 3 years ago, with the same speed but now with much better efficiency. For upgrading a GPU, current times are terrible. For buying a first GPU, current times are good if you can accept the price level for the desired speed.
SOFTWARE
KataGo needs a GUI, such as KaTrain or Lizzie. Only if you only have a CPU, use KataGo Eigen. If you just want to get some KataGo running on a GPU, start with its OpenCL version and the main GUIs by installing Baduk AI Megapack. Next, try CUDA. Installing CUDA or Tensor can be difficult, see discussions elsewhere or later.
Instead of wasting time on various crapware, consider CPU-Z for stress test CPU, Furmark for stress test GPU, Katago on dGPU with long time settings and AI player for almost stress test GPU, HWiINFO64 to monitor loads, temperatures and fan speeds, the mainboard UEFI to set fan speeds, Windows | memory diagnostics to test RAM, OCCT to test VRAM, Afterburner for tuning the dGPU.