Life In 19x19

Posted: **Mon Oct 21, 2013 12:45 am**

Hi there I was wondering if some would be able to point out where I went wrong in this game. I felt that in the early mid game (around move 60) I'd gotten myself into a pretty good position but for a most of the rest of the game I just felt like I was struggling (and ultimately failing) to contain my opponent

Thanks in advance

Posted: **Mon Oct 21, 2013 1:05 am**

Move 62 was pretty much the do or die moment. You had built an enormous moyo with walls on both sides. All you needed to do was attack the lone white stone and you should win. If you killed it outright your victory would be enormous (and it had nowhere to run, so you probably could have.) However, even if all you could do was run it to the other side of the board it would still give you territory on both sides that should have been more than what white had.

I feel like the key mistake was shoulder hitting the stone. Shoulder hits and direct attachments usually are bad ideas when attacking because they force your opponent to make their stone(s) stronger. Instead, an approach move would have been better. White would then be hard pressed to find a move because there are black stones everywhere and living straight-up in the center is hard.

If you want more on attacking, here is Nick Sibicky's lecture on the subject.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQ1lJJrSEGE

Posted: **Mon Oct 21, 2013 4:31 am**

I'd say its move 84 (and move 100 is of the same kind). You try to kill him hard and dont have a plan if he tries to esacpe. Just seal him in, let him live with 2 points (fe N6 at move 84 or P11 at move 100). Adn then take a big point like (at move 100 for example G11 for the middle moyo or O18 strengthening the corner - not securing as its open on the other side).

i get the impression you think of moyos as secure territory to much. A small 10 stone - 2 point group inside your "too big to be secure moyo" is a sucess for you - nor for him.

Posted: **Mon Oct 21, 2013 6:11 am**

Basic shape problems. Tendency to play softly, submissively (backing off from fights, like you are scared).
For your move 100, see Toothpaste shape

Posted: **Mon Oct 21, 2013 7:49 am**

Just one minor tactical hint: On move 38 you can also connect at D17. If white tries to escape via E19, you can play on the 2-2 point at B18. If w ataris that stone you can extend and w cannot immediately approach (that works from both directions). You would get at least the white B17 stones. The 2-2 point often works surprisingly well when trying to kill a corner group...

Posted: **Mon Oct 21, 2013 8:47 am**

From 100 on you can wedge and cut at N5. I haven't looked very seriously at the game so I can't tell you at what points this wedge would have been a good move and at what points it was a bad move, but 172 lost a lot of points. This is a classic example of a "raw peep" - as the proverb says, don't peep where you can cut.

Posted: **Mon Oct 21, 2013 10:35 am**

A few more comments.

Main points:

1) Sealing off an opposing group is usually good strategy.

2) Do not strengthen your opponent needlessly.

3) Do not weaken yourself needlessly.

Posted: **Tue Oct 22, 2013 10:32 am**

Wow, thanks very much for all the comments! That's certainly given me plenty to think about, it looks like I have a few bad habits I need to work on.

Now that's its been pointed out to me it seems obvious that I should have sealed the white group in when I had the chance rather than squeezing it across the board. Sadly I was oblivious to this idea when I was playing.

Thanks again

Posted: **Sun Oct 27, 2013 9:02 pm**

Move 10 (large knight) is too soft in this situation when you are strong or OK around. Play a small knight and you will come out in sente or even better: kick with R5 or Q6. Remember in general: Be aware that a large knight shimari from an hoshi enables your opponent still to invade at the 3-3 with sente. Usually one plays that move in a "light" purpose to emphasize the side while not caring about the corner.

Life In 19x19

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